01The Soda Siphon

In the golden age of the presszó, soda water never came from a bottle: it came from a siphon. Every spritzer and raspberry syrup drink in Budapest started with a head like this one. Ours is not a prop: thousands of these circulated through the city's cafés, and this one is ours.
Hungary's soda-water craft dates back to the 1800s, and it lived on every street corner like this.
- Since the 1800s
- Glass in a wire or metal jacket, later steel or aluminium
- Fröccs and raspberry soda
Read more: How it works · The soda trade · The drinks
How it works
A soda siphon is a pressure vessel with a head. Inside the bottle sits water charged with carbon dioxide, and a tube runs from the head down to the bottom. Press the lever and the gas pressure pushes the water up the tube and out of the spout, while the rest stays sealed and fizzy until the next glass.
The soda trade
Early siphons were thick glass in a wire or metal jacket, because the pressure inside could shatter a weak bottle; later ones were made of steel or aluminium. In Hungary soda water has its own word, szikvíz, and it had its own trade. Soda men delivered filled siphons by cart to cafés and homes, collected the empties and refilled them at small local works, so a single head could travel for years.
The drinks
The drinks made with it are still ordered today. Fröccs is wine with soda, and its versions are named by ratio, from the kisfröccs at one part wine to one part soda to the hosszúlépés with twice as much soda as wine. Raspberry syrup with soda was the children's order in every presszó.















